The highlight of our week? Hands down, this is it. I didn’t shoot this video – it was taken by our neighbor, and emailed to me. Hers was much better than mine!
In a full-out windstorm (blowing 25-40mph, gusting 45-55mph), we headed to Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area, hoping to see the thousands of migrating Sandhill Cranes that winter there. It was a spectacular success.
But, let’s back up a wee bit. Facing a short travel day, we actually elected to take the long route to Whitewater Draw. This would take us through Tombstone, AZ, home of the famous Boot Hill Cemetery, and also the location of the Shootout at the OK Corral. This town has more kitschy western-y stuff going on than all the rest of Arizona put together. Tombstone may have been the center of the Wild Wild West back in the 1880s. To wander through the cemetery, it sure would reinforce that idea. Many of the tombstones have a name, followed by the designation ‘murdered’, ‘hanged’, or ‘shot’. My favorite is the grave marker of the famous Lester Moore.Howling wind made it uncomfortable to stay out too long, even though the temperatures were in the low 60s. How windy was it? Ask Jezzy.We sought shelter in Big Nose Kate’s Saloon. BNK was the girlfriend of Doc Holliday, one of the infamous participants in the Shootout. John was persuaded to step behind the bar and pretend to draw a beer for me. “Put your hand on the tap, but DON’T PULL!”, were his instructions.Maybe you had to be there to appreciate this, but the funniest thing was the stagecoach which could be hired for a brief tour. The driver, in full stagecoach regalia, was pointing out places of interest to his four passengers. But, it was a recorded presentation. That didn’t stop this driver from giving it his all – he was waving his arms, and giving a full theatrical presentation, as if he was performing at the Met. His passengers were most likely oblivious to this, being sheltered inside the stagecoach. As he passed by, John and I looked at each other and burst out laughing. But, maybe you had to be there……The Courthouse Museum was our next stop, where we learned everything one could possibly want to know about the Shootout at the OK Corral, starring Sheriff Wyatt Earp, his two brothers, and Doc Holliday against the bad guys, who were all killed. Wyatt Earp was the only one not wounded or killed that day. As I said, Tombstone was a tough place to live in the 1880s!
We rolled into Whitewater Draw around 2:30, and established our spot in the ‘campground’. This is actually a small circular parking lot, with a vault toilet in the center, and about six parking spaces surrounding it. Other cars can pull in and park for a few hours, but this is the only overnight spot. Our neighbors were from Switzerland – halfway through a two year tour of the US. Nice folks!We knew this was a Sandhill paradise, as we follow the excellent blog of Ingrid, who describes herself as a ‘non-birder’, but who takes the most fabulous bird photos. Check out her post by clicking the link above.
We quickly set up, turning the Fireball around, so that our door would be downwind. If not, we would not have been able to open it from the inside – that’s how violent the wind was. But, where are the Sandhills? We saw ZERO CRANES! Ah, we remembered that Ingrid mentioned that they depart at first light in the morning to feed in area fields, and return to the water at dusk. The flock here is estimated at times to be nearly 30,000 birds, although we didn’t expect to see that many.
Around 5:30, we wandered down to the water, binoculars and cell phone cameras at the ready. We quickly met our Swiss neighbors, and our California neighbors in the huge RV directly across the parking lot. Soon, we could hear the racket of Sandhill Cranes, coming in for a landing. They were in packs of 100-200, flying directly into the fierce south wind. Wave after wave landed, taking spots in the water, where they stay for the night. There must have been 10,000-12,000. We speculated that they stay in the water as protection from predators – there were lots of coyotes hanging around, and we dreaded hearing any confrontations. Unfortunately, the very dark clouds and late hour of the day precluded any decent photos. But, we (and our new neighbors) kept murmuring ohmygawd as another batch landed. The noise was incredible!! I downloaded an app for my phone to record sound, which I did. It’s magnificent. BUT, it doesn’t allow me to share the sound files. So, if you see me sometime, ask to listen. It’s a wonderful raucous symphony.
We set our alarm for 5:30 am to be sure to be out at first light. It was in the 40s and raining. But, we stuck it out, and were rewarded with liftoffs of several hundred Cranes every minute or so, heading out to feed. It poured all morning, finally clearing up around noon. Jezzy and I headed out to explore. Check out these feet – would you want them in YOUR camper?We decided to stay one more night to see if we could get a better view, hoping that the dark clouds of the storm would have passed. We were rewarded, in spades! The Cranes were all huddled along the far shore when apparently a sprinkler went on in the massive field, causing the uprising that you see in the opening video. It was unbelievable. Thousands and thousands of Sandhills. Again at 5:30 the next day, we stood on the water’s edge. Cranes flew away in huge numbers, with the entire 10K (or so) leaving within a space of 10 minutes. We could see the in the dim light through our binoculars, but there wasn’t enough light for photos. I will never forget this sight.
We have to move on. Leaving Arizona in our rearview mirror, we head to the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument in New Mexico. This area’s most famous inhabitant was probably Geronimo.It’s my day to drive. Unfortunately (for John), this involved one of the most hair-raising 40 miles of road we hope to ever travel. Twisty, turny, up and down…..it took us two hours to climb and descend into the Park area. They sure didn’t build these cliff dwellings downtown! Had to pry my sweaty, cramped hands off the steering wheel. What we didn’t realize was that the ‘campground’ was (again) a parking lot with some walk-in tent sites. There was only one other camper here, so we hogged an entire corner of the parking lot and set up camp.The Cliff Dwellings here are accessible on foot from a pathway about 1/2 mile from our campsite. After spending a very chilly night (the temperature was 14), we set off to explore. The natural caves in this area had been inhabited over several thousand years, but were only built up inside the caves and inhabited for a very short period – perhaps as little as one generation. The mystery of why the Puebloan people of the Mogollon era left this area is unresolved. The site is spectacular, and we were fortunate to have a volunteer docent walk us through the area. He explored lots of questions, persuading us to think about scenarios that may have affected the inhabitants. Although this is a difficult area to reach, and one with limited facilities once you finally DO get there, it’s a worthwhile trip. Here are several different views from the dwellings. It’s interesting to note that the remnants of several thousand years of habitation in this area were destroyed by the building of the current road that leads to the cliff dwellings. Knowingly. Only in America….
Cold again at night. Minus 14. John is wishing that I would relax my prohibition on running the heater at night. It’s only 35 inside the Fireball in the morning. Fine, until our feet hit the floor!
The week is beginning to blur on me. Our “3 Night Minimum Stay” policy is in the toilet after our first week. We’ve had three locations of two nights each so far, and it’s getting worse. We press on to Fort Davis State Park, in the middle of West Texas. For those who haven’t visited this area, West Texas is the largest area of nothing one might ever hope not to visit. Mile after mile of……nothing. Our site is unremarkable enough, that (perhaps for the first time), we neglect to take even one photograph of our campsite. The park is very clean, but very old. Sites are small. It’s packed! Why does everyone DRIVE to the bathroom? We’ve never been in a park with so much truck traffic! omg!
This early Texas State Park has many CCC buildings and features. We decide to explore the Trail that leads to a lookout over Fort Davis. It’s an uneven, uphill trek. At the peak is a stone lookout shelter, with a great 360 degree view. There’s also an old CCC era stone water storage tank. Instead of taking the 4.5 mile (long-way) return, we decide to hike out to the Fort Davis overlook. What a smart decision that turned out to be! The trail led through a lava field, with enormous black boulders squeezing a narrow trail. After 3/4 mile, we came to the edge of a cliff, overlooking the historic Fort, a frontier post during the Indian Wars. From our high vantage point, we can see the entire complex, and learn one very interesting fact. The officer’s quarters (red brick buildings in the lower right corner) were built pointing to magnetic north, while the enlisted men’s barracks (the foundations to the right of them) were lined up to true north. We loved this big view. The Fort was also briefly occupied by the Confederate Army, an was decommissioned shortly after that.
We’re trying to figure out how to push on to Texas Hill Country, where John wants to search for BBQ nirvana. Brisket! Bummer for us, we badly need to find a laundromat. One of the pitfalls of having a tiny camper is the equally small amount of clothes we can pack. We’re good for about a week between laundry stops. Out here in West Texas, there are few towns large enough to support a laundromat, so we find ourselves camped for the night in Fort Stockton at the RV Park. Yikes! A couple hundred large rigs and us. The RV three slots away has painted on the side, “Private Coach Not For Hire”. We think we’re going to hand-letter a candy wrapper with this, and tape it to our door. Ha!
Headed toward Austin for a couple of days. We’re in the middle of an endless TX Spring Break. There isn’t a State Park campsite available for the next two weeks (and we purchased a TX State Park pass for $70!) We can get one night here, and one night there, but we’re exhausted with the effort of driving and moving. Hope we can figure this out!