Seems like forever ago since we were picking oranges in sunny Bakersfield, but it’s only been a week. A rather long one, actually..
We were excited to get to the California Coast. Morro Bay State Park was our first stop. The campground looked like a tornado had ripped through it – damage from a storm the previous night. Eucalyptus tree bark and branches were everywhere, and several campsites were closed because of debris.The damp air was intoxicating with the astringent scent of these massive trees, but what a mess. Puddles everywhere, and tall grass and weeds didn’t make a great first impression. During the three days we stayed there, nothing changed or got cleaned up, so we were left to deduce that this is the normal state of affairs at this park. The showers had only cold water – what an unpleasant discovery that was!
But, what a beautiful setting. A boardwalk along the estuary provides the perfect place for birding or wandering. We found nearly perfect fish tacos at the small café next to the kayak landing. The tackiness of the campground faded a bit in such a gorgeous setting. We cycled to explore tidal pools nearby. I wasn’t able to get any decent photos – this was the first day of camera/phone problems that have vexed me since then. (Five days later….problem fixed. New battery. But, damn! I sure missed lots of great photo ops in the meantime!)
Whether to visit Hearst Castle or not has been one of our big debates. Neither of us was particular rabid about going, but it seems to be one of those ‘must do’ things when you’re in the area. What a spectacular setting – the Hearst estate ranges for miles in every direction, and the views are mesmerizing.I would have been content to stay on the patio and absorb the atmosphere. Although we had a great guide, we couldn’t wait to get through with the tour and get back on the road to explore. Hearst Castle is an astounding display of excess by a very rich man. Ick. (But, I have to admit that I was tickled to pass a herd of zebras sharing pasture with a bunch of cows – descendants of some of the exotic animals Hearst kept on the property).Soon we were once again rolling up this amazing coastline. Next up was the Piedras Blancas elephant seal rookery just north of the Castle. We’re lucky to have visited at this time of year, since the big bulls (weighing up to 5000 pounds), the females (up to 1600 pounds), and the pups are all laying on the beach in their splendor. I could have stayed all day just to watch these curious creatures. The only movement came when a few of the big males got aggressive with each other, or flopped a short way down the beach. Some of the pups flipped sand around, covering themselves and their neighbors. Otherwise, it was just a crowded day at the beach. Fascinating. If you follow the link above, there is a 24HR seal cam you can watch. I have to wait until I have some WiFi that somebody other than me is paying for before I can check this out!
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park was our next destination. The same storm that had wracked Morro Bay dumped inches of rain at Big Sur as well. The campsite we had reserved was mired in mud inches deep, and we were lucky to find another that John could shoehorn the Fireball into – some of these sites are really tiny, and others were underwater. Not only did our new campsite have our own private redwood grove, it also had a fragrant bay tree. No photos, unfortunately. There are lots of hiking trails in the Park, and the Big Sur River roars through the middle. With the storm, it was really rolling – we could hear it at night, crashing down the mountains.
We enjoyed a hike, including our first glimpse of the big California Redwoods, and a campfire, and all was well. A big storm was coming, but we had our awning up and the campsite generally secured. Then WHAM! What a storm! The wind kicked up, and it rained like mad waking us up in the darkness of early morning. We were cozy inside, reading. John casually said, “How’s the (broken) window holding up?” I looked over, and that’s where the madness began. Water was not dripping, but streaming in through the window (from a crease in the duct tape), directly into the mattress! We grabbed t-shirts and towels to mop and sop, and a bowl to collect the runoff. Happy campers? Hardly! After an hour or so, the rain subsided, John retaped the window, and I went out to explore. We deployed our small battery operated fan (which we keep on hand to dry out our bathroom after using the shower) in an attempt t dry out the bed. I had my shower sandals on, since the road was inches deep in mud. One of the friendly Park Rangers stopped me, and told me that the entire park was being evacuated because of flash flood potential. We were told to pack up and leave NOW! Are you kidding me?? John had to wade out to the picnic table to pack up the grill and campstove. Our dripping awning and sodden patio mat were stuffed into the back of the truck, and we truly plowed our way out of the Park.
On to Monterey, where we checked into Veterans Memorial Park. This is a beauty of a City Park, with about 30 rustic campsites. Each night, precisely at 10pm, we hear Taps being played by a trumpeter from the nearby Monterey Presidio. Reveille at 7am. Retreat at 6pm. That’s the best part of being here. The Park is a great location from which to explore the area – just a couple of miles from Cannery Row, the fabulous Aquarium, and the 17 Mile Drive. Saturday, we cycled along Oceanside Drive, stopping every few feet to clamber out onto the rocks, catch a glimpse of the seals, or watch the surfers in the enormous waves.Our very rainy Sunday afternoon is spent at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Plants, birds, sharks, penguins, sea otters, and hundreds of fish species dazzle your eyeballs. I loved the jellyfish most of all, and was crushed that I really couldn’t get any photos. John took a few, including this amazing one.In the meantime, we’ve got a bit of sunshine peaking through for the first time today. We’re in dire need of a dryout – everything we own is soaked. Our solar panel has not generated any power for days now. Time for a bike ride – we’re going to roll along the famed 17 Mile Drive, which connects Monterey to Carmel. Bikes travel free – cars are $10. We passed Lone Cypress Point, the Ghost Cypress, Pebble Beach and Spyglass Golf Links, and some amazing coastline. My phone still hadn’t been fixed by then, so photos are credited to John.
We’ve overstayed our welcome here (limit is 3 days, but we begged a 4th). Tomorrow we move to Laguna Seca Recreation Area, about 12 miles away. I understand that this campground is part of a racetrack (car) complex. We’re hoping for a quiet midweek stay, but who knows how these things turn out?
Coastal Crawl Continues….