Coastal Crawl

Seems like forever ago since we were picking oranges in sunny Bakersfield, but it’s only been a week. A rather long one, actually..

We were excited to get to the California Coast.  Morro Bay State Park was our first stop. The campground looked like a tornado had ripped through it – damage from a storm the previous night. Eucalyptus tree bark and branches were everywhere, and several campsites were closed because of debris.20160307_154523The damp air was intoxicating with the astringent scent of these massive trees, but what a mess. Puddles everywhere, and tall grass and weeds didn’t make a great first impression.20160307_154232 During the three days we stayed there, nothing changed or got cleaned up, so we were left to deduce that this is the normal state of affairs at this park. The showers had only cold water – what an unpleasant discovery that was!

But, what a beautiful setting. A boardwalk along the estuary provides the perfect place for birding or wandering.20160307_17481420160307_175116 We found nearly perfect fish tacos at the small café next to the kayak landing.20160308_110241 The tackiness of the campground faded a bit in such a gorgeous setting. We cycled to explore tidal pools nearby.20160308_15270420160308_153419 I wasn’t able to get any decent photos – this was the first day of camera/phone problems that have vexed me since then. (Five days later….problem fixed. New battery. But, damn! I sure missed lots of great photo ops in the meantime!)

Whether to visit Hearst Castle or not has been one of our big debates. Neither of us was particular rabid about going, but it seems to be one of those ‘must do’ things when you’re in the area. What a spectacular setting – the Hearst estate ranges for miles in every direction, and the views are mesmerizing.20160309_11215220160309_11071220160309_112510 - CopyI would have been content to stay on the patio and absorb the atmosphere. Although we had a great guide, we couldn’t wait to get through with the tour and get back on the road to explore. Hearst Castle is an astounding display of excess by a very rich man. Ick. (But, I have to admit that I was tickled to pass a herd of zebras sharing pasture with a bunch of cows – descendants of some of the exotic animals Hearst kept on the property).20160309_095203Soon we were once again rolling up this amazing coastline.20160311_110818 Next up was the Piedras Blancas elephant seal rookery just north of the Castle. We’re lucky to have visited at this time of year, since the big bulls (weighing up to 5000 pounds), the females (up to 1600 pounds), and the pups are all laying on the beach in their splendor.20160309_13141020160309_130244 I could have stayed all day just to watch these curious creatures. The only movement came when a few of the big males got aggressive with each other, or flopped a short way down the beach. 20160309_131535Some of the pups flipped sand around, covering themselves and their neighbors. Otherwise, it was just a crowded day at the beach. Fascinating. If you follow the link above, there is a 24HR seal cam you can watch. I have to wait until I have some WiFi that somebody other than me is paying for before I can check this out!

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park was our next destination. The same storm that had wracked Morro Bay dumped inches of rain at Big Sur as well.20160311_100623 The campsite we had reserved was mired in mud inches deep, and we were lucky to find another that John could shoehorn the Fireball into – some of these sites are really tiny, and others were underwater. Not only did our new campsite have our own private redwood grove, it also had a fragrant bay tree. No photos, unfortunately. There are lots of hiking trails in the Park, and the Big Sur River roars through the middle. With the storm, it was really rolling – we could hear it at night, crashing down the mountains.

We enjoyed a hike, including our first glimpse of the big California Redwoods, and a campfire, and all was well.20160310_104555 A big storm was coming, but we had our awning up and the campsite generally secured. Then WHAM! What a storm! The wind kicked up, and it rained like mad waking us up in the darkness of early morning. We were cozy inside, reading. John casually said, “How’s the (broken) window holding up?” I looked over, and that’s where the madness began. Water was not dripping, but streaming in through the window (from a crease in the duct tape), directly into the mattress! We grabbed t-shirts and towels to mop and sop, and a bowl to collect the runoff. Happy campers? Hardly! After an hour or so, the rain subsided, John retaped the window, and I went out to explore. We deployed our small battery operated fan (which we keep on hand to dry out our bathroom after using the shower) in an attempt t dry out the bed. I had my shower sandals on, since the road was inches deep in mud. One of the friendly Park Rangers stopped me, and told me that the entire park was being evacuated because of flash flood potential. We were told to pack up and leave NOW! Are you kidding me?? John had to wade out to the picnic table to pack up the grill and campstove. Our dripping awning and sodden patio mat were stuffed into the back of the truck, and we truly plowed our way out of the Park.

On to Monterey, where we checked into Veterans Memorial Park. This is a beauty of a City Park, with about 30 rustic campsites.20160314_125812.jpg Each night, precisely at 10pm, we hear Taps being played by a trumpeter from the nearby Monterey Presidio. Reveille at 7am. Retreat at 6pm. That’s the best part of being here. The Park is a great location from which to explore the area – just a couple of miles from Cannery Row, the fabulous Aquarium, and the 17 Mile Drive. Saturday, we cycled along Oceanside Drive, stopping every few feet to clamber out onto the rocks, catch a glimpse of the seals, or watch the surfers in the enormous waves.20160312_130254.jpg20160312_131126.jpgOur very rainy Sunday afternoon is spent at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Plants, birds, sharks, penguins, sea otters, and hundreds of fish species dazzle your eyeballs.20160313_123200.jpg20160313_113648.jpg I loved the jellyfish most of all, and was crushed that I really couldn’t get any photos. John took a few, including this amazing one.imageIn the meantime, we’ve got a bit of sunshine peaking through for the first time today. We’re in dire need of a dryout – everything we own is soaked. Our solar panel has not generated any power for days now. Time for a bike ride – we’re going to roll along the famed 17 Mile Drive, which connects Monterey to Carmel. Bikes travel free – cars are $10. We passed Lone Cypress Point, the Ghost Cypress, Pebble Beach and Spyglass Golf Links, and some amazing coastline. My phone still hadn’t been fixed by then, so photos are credited to John.imageimageimageimageimageimage

We’ve overstayed our welcome here (limit is 3 days, but we begged a 4th). Tomorrow we move to Laguna Seca Recreation Area, about 12 miles away. I understand that this campground is part of a racetrack (car) complex. We’re hoping for a quiet midweek stay, but who knows how these things turn out?

Coastal Crawl Continues….

 

 

31 thoughts on “Coastal Crawl

  1. You two have some of the greatest adventures from evacuations to broken axles, leaky windows, but always gorgeous photos and great stories. Our snow is gone and Rosie is sitting in our driveway—-earliest we’ve had her out of storage! I’m eager to go camping so thanks for sharing your experiences with us poor working slobs. See ya at a campfire in 57 days or so. :)

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    • Only 57 days?? Shit – we’re going to have to hurry – we NEVER cover that much ground in so little time! Beach camping at Sunset Beach State Park near Watsonville tonight, and tomorrow we’re going to cycle on the beach – can’t beat this kind of living. Wish you and Ray could retire for a year or so, travel with us, then work an extra year at the end. Worth considering, no??

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  2. You know, when you think of California RAIN is not the first thing that springs to mind! So sorry about the crappy weather but your photos are still beautiful and I can just imagine the smell of the trees and the ocean . . .if you’re going to San Francisco, be sure to wear some flowers in your hair! :)

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    • Flowers in my hair – just perfect for me!

      We’ve had two nice days, but everything is so saturated that there is standing water in the most inconvenient places. We practically have to wade to the bathroom from our front row seats at the motorcycle races.

      Can wait for San Fran. Cycling across the bridge is going to be amazing. I plan to eat until I can’t anymore…..

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    • Hi, Don. What’s not to like out here? Think I prefer Monterey to Carmel – there are some wonderful neighborhoods here.

      We were going to ask you for San Francisco food recommendations – what’s on your list where a couple of scraggly campers would be welcome?

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  3. Ahh, the joys of camping. It’s always too hot, too cold, too wet, or too dry, sorry about the soggy mess, been there, done that, I hope that you dry out soon!

    The upside is that you’re seeing some wonderful scenery, and great wildlife like the seals and avocet and others. The seals have a rough life, lounging around on the beach all day, just like some people that I know. ;)

    I’ve never been to California, but this post makes me want to change that, despite the rotten weather that you’re dealing with.

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    • Jerry, it’s a photographer’s dream here along the coast. There are so many times I’ve longed for a long lens and a real camera. I know that my aging memory isn’t going to record many of these fantastic scenes for too long.

      When we have days of rain, we get si tourbofbour routine – we enjoy cooking breakfast and dinner outside. When it’s pouring, we tend to eat crap inside. That only adds to the restlessness and agitation. It’s a pretty small space for two people and a wet, stinky dog!

      Are you suggesting that I complain less? Point well taken. :-)

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  4. Oh! Your pictures are making me tear up. They are so beautiful, and I fondly remember so many of those places from my 2 trips there especially my trip with Mark for his graduation. I’m so glad you were able to bike the 17-Mile Drive. I’m sure you saw much more than I did in a car even at a crawling speed. Did you see any of the very tame deer? They are much smaller than our white tails, but we were able to walk to about 6 feet from them before they moved away. I’m astounded that those Cypress trees are still standing, especially the Lone Cypress. I first saw that in 1963. Imagine how many storms and huge waves have battered it over all those years. The will to survive is very strong. Sorry you are having so much rain, but I bet the locals are happy. They’ve been so dry for so long. Keep sending those pictures along with your wonderful narratives. I’m living it again through you. Thank you.

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    • Cycling the 17 Mile Drive is wonderful. We stopped at every pullout, which would be hugely irritating in a car. No motion sickness on a bike! Can you believe I got seasick in the Aquarium?? All that wavy motion, crowds and warm air? I was a goner!

      The entire coastal experience is amazing. I know they need the rain overall, but the streets are just running rivers to the ocean, since there aren’t adequate catch basins to funnel the rainwater back into the ground water – it seems that CA was caught a bit flat-footed by this El Nino winter.

      Now that I’ve got my camera back, I hope to capture more of the color. Spring is bustin’ out here.

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      • No reason why California should have been caught flat-footed! The forecasters have been warning about an El Nino winter for some time. Guess Californians didn’t think it would really happen!

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  5. I’m sorry Hearst Castle was a bit of a “ho-hum” or “ick” experience, but didn’t I tell you the setting was worth the visit? :-) I remember thinking how much I wanted to just settle in a lounge chair by the pool and enjoy the view and flower scents.

    Sorry to hear about your rain problems, not to mention the cold water at the campground! Hope your weather improves. This coming Thursday is our first dry day in March. We are very much looking forward to heading south in a few weeks.

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    • Sometimes, I just know that I’m whining when I write these posts. But, have to admit that I really disliked Hearst Castle. Couldn’t wait to get outta there! Wonder if I would feel the same if I toured Bill Gates’ home. Maybe it’s just that dark, gothic hunting-lodge thing that gets under my skin.

      Anyway, I’m wondering if our paths might possibly cross in April. We are shooting for Tahoe maybe around the 10th of April, give or take a few days. Maybe you’ll be nearby?

      Many days if camping rain puts a spot on my soul. Probably due to our crowded conditions, while require outdoor access. Perhaps due to the fact that I’m just a pretty grumpy person who needs a bit of space!

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      • Well, rats! We will be in Reno on April 6/7, then heading to Las Vegas on the 8th. Let me know if need anymore Tahoe advice. Do you have specific plans yet?

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      • No specific plans yet. Everything is weather-dependent. If it’s really snowy or extremely cold, we probably won’t attempt the mountain crossing into Tahoe. We figure there won’t be too much competition for camping spots, so we’re not too worried about that piece of it. Still trying to figure out what we want our basic route heading East to be.

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      • You do know that forest campgrounds in the Tahoe area won’t be open, right? They have received a ton of snow so the only places to camp will be the commercial RV parks such as Tahoe Valley, Camp Richardson (maybe), and Zephyr Cove–unless you know of something else, and you two are really good at finding those out of the way places so there may be something I’m not thinking of.

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